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Seven years ago I was struck by the thought that biscuits
and cookies weren't tasty enough. I mean, they're nice, but if
you want a real treat, something seriously good, biscuits weren't
top of the list. Not my list anyway. Biscuits (cookies to our
American friends) seemed to be like ice-cream pre-Häagen
Dazs – nice but hardly wow. Most are not in the least indulgent
and the ‘soft bake’ cookies are just sugary
and disappointing as soon as they are cold.
So I started experimenting with the aim of making truly delicious
gourmet biscuits. A biscuit full of rich, crumbly buttery loveliness.
There were three tricks to making them so good. One was the
ingredients; money no object, I simply searched and found the
best. The second was changing the fundamental proportions of
a biscuit recipe to give extraordinary flavour. The third, a
special way of mixing the dough to get the right amount of air
into the dough.
The first thing I did was decide we'd have no
dodgy ingredients. So no colours, no preservatives
sprayed onto fruit, no flavourings, no hydrogenated oils, no
margarine, no cheap chocolate, no powdered egg, and no little "chocolate
chips". In fact the only thing that’s not natural
that I use is good old fashioned baking powder.
I tested different chocolate because it's not as simple as just
getting good chocolate – it needs to be chocolate that
reacts well to being in a very hot oven. Plus, the chocolate
I was looking for had to be super creamy – so that you
get that wonderful contrast of crumble from the biscuit and creaminess
from the chocolate. Then I found an unusual butter that
has a more intense flavour that really carries through into the
baked product. Fruit pieces that haven't being sprayed with preservatives
were surprisingly difficult to find... whole macadamia nuts were
much easier, as David in the bakery knows a macadamia farmer
in South Africa.
After hundreds of bakings & tastings, I created six truly
delicious recipes. All crumbly and buttery, rather than hard,
crunchy industrial biscuits that we are all used to.
But I wanted to make sure they were really good. Not just good
in my opinion. So I travelled all over and bought every single
good biscuit I could find in the UK, Europe, America, Canada & Australasia.
I then sat in coffee shops getting biscuit and cookie lovers
to taste them to make sure mine really were the best. They were...
everyone could really taste the difference.
After some celebration came the really tricky part. Making them
in any kind of numbers. Making them by hand wasn't any use at
all; it just wasn't possible to be gentle enough if you were
making anything more than just a handful. But no biscuit machine
was gentle enough either – plus the dough was too rich.
The dough would stick to plungers, the pipes would get stuck
with huge Macadamia nuts, the air bubbles would get squeezed
out of the beautifully aerated dough. We tried for years (literally)
adjusting the machines – but still, they couldn't do it.
Those were the dark years. It was enormously frustrating. Ask
my poor friends that had to endure my stories of bunged up pipes.
But there was no way I was changing my recipe. And there was
no way I was giving up. So, in the end, I built my own machine – well,
the truth is, I got some clever engineers to build a machine
for me. After about a year, we had the first machine in the world
that could cope with my dough. What's more, a machine that’s
more gentle than making them by hand.
So here we are now ready to sell PT's gourmet packaged biscuits, at last.
They are on Virgin Atlantic Airline Upper Class and we are fast
being approached by shops, so soon you’ll be able to buy
them in a shop near you but till then you can also buy them on-line
from this site.
I hope you like them. Let me know what you think. It’s
amazing to get feedback from people, so if you have time, do
drop me a line.
Happy eating, yours in biscuits |